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What are Jewellery Hallmarks

 

What are Jewellery Hallmarks



Hallmarking is the only government-approved method of testing the purity of gold and stamping it with a ‘gold hallmark’ as per the standards set by the SLAO (Sri Lanka Assay Office) under the National Gem and Jewellery Authority.

How do I know if my gold jewellery is hallmarked?

You will find a hallmark that consists of these 3 symbols on every piece of gold jewellery/gold.

The symbol for purity would differ depending on the karatage of your gold. For 22-karat gold, the symbol is 916. For 18-karat gold, it is 750, and for 14-karat gold it is 585. While 24-karat is the purest form of gold, it is too soft and malleable to use for making jewellery.

SLAO Hallmark comprises of following compulsory symbols.

1.   Assay Office Mark/ Country Mark (PUNKALASA) – 

2.   Mark to indicate metal type (LAMP/ PAHANA) – 

3.   Fineness (Purity) mark  – 

 

 


What are the benefits of hallmarking gold?

  • Protects Consumer as well as safeguard the jewellery industry from unethical practices/ competions.
  • Support to Maintain Sri Lankan jewellery standards in par with International Standards.
  • Minimize frauds (Under Karating) during Jewellery manufacturing trading and pawning etc.
  • Important tool to promote our jewellery in competitive international markets.
  • Essential system for Sri Lanka to be a full member of the Hallmarking Convention.
  • Where Sri Lanka Assay Office will be empowered by the convention to use world recognized “Convention Hallmark” which is a definite value addition for our jewellery exports. As well as eradicate
  • Cross border settings “At present 22 countries enjoy full membership of the convention, whereas Sri Lanka, Italy and Ukraine are categorized as “observe members”.
  • Revenue Generation.

Hallmarked gold can help you prove the purity of the gold you own as you are given a certificate of purity. On your part, you must ask your jeweller for their hallmarking certificate, and for a magnifying glass so you can check the 3 symbols of a gold hallmark. You must also ask for a bill that usually records every minute detail of the gold purchase, including making charges, wastage charges, and date of purchase, quantity of gold, purity of gold, taxes, and the day’s price of gold.

Will hallmarking make gold more expensive?

Absolutely not!  If you are buying gold to benefit from its aesthetic, cultural, or economic value, make sure you ask hallmark and get exactly what you are paying for!

GOLDCeylon - GOLD News E Magazine

Are you want to be qualified Gems and Jewelry Appraiser?

 

Are you want to be qualified Gems and Jewelry Appraiser?



American Society of Appraisers (ASA) is one of most recommended Institute in the World.



A highly structured and detailed course for Appraiser beginners in the field of Gem & Jewellery.

I am Indika  Bandara from Sri Lanka and I recently faced the exam Foundation Principle   Appraising Gem and Jewelry of American Society of Appraisers (ASA)  .

The course is without a doubt one of the best investment I have made in the myseft and now I am reaping the awards

Our tutors, Mark and Mary were absolutely fantastic throughout the entire length of our study- prompt to reply to our questions, and always with detailed answers to help me further my understanding of the course work. I just want to thank Mark ,  Mary , Nathaly and all other Staff Members of ASA for all the time and effort he has put into helping me and grading our work.

Indika Bandara (Proprietor GOLDCeylon E Magazine- Sri Lanka)

The American Society of Appraisers (ASA) is the largest multi-discipline organization representing appraisers nationwide. The society was founded in 1936 and is one of the eight major appraisal groups that founded The Appraisal Foundation. The ASA is a multi-discipline, non-profit, international organization of professional appraisers representing all appraisal disciplines including:

·         Appraisal Review and Management

·         Business Valuation

·         Gems and Jewelry

·         Machinery and Technical Specialties

·         Personal Property

·         Real Property

Gems and Jewelry Valuation

The ASA appraiser is more than a jeweler or gemologist.

It is said, “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder”. The eye of an American Society of Appraisers (ASA) Gems & Jewelry (GJ) Appraiser is the most trained of all jewelers and gemologists. Gems & Jewelry Appraisers with accreditation from ASA possess the most prestigious and widely recognized global appraisal credentials. ASA GJ Appraisers are the gold standard of gems and jewelry appraisers.  Subtle differences in quality lead to dramatic differences in value. Education in gemology and knowledge of current markets provides the edge to value gems and jewelry accurately. ASA Gems and Jewelry appraisers have accumulated a lifetime of study with materials, techniques and designs of jewelry. As part of their on-going accreditations, appraisers color grading skills are periodically tested to ensure accuracy in grading colored gemstones. To maintain the Master Gemologist Appraiser® status, ASA GJ Appraisers must pass a rigorous practical examination every five years. Members of ASA’s GJ discipline are the most distinguished Gem & Jewelry appraisers in the world.

An ASA Gems & Jewelry appraisal report will provide you with a detailed description of your gems and jewelry along with a value based on the most relevant market to meet your needs. ASA Gems & Jewelry appraisers provide internationally recognized appraisals for the following;

·         Insurance Coverage

·         Insurance Claims

·         Estate Distribution

·         Gifts and Charitable Donations

·         Equitable division of assets

·         Dissolution of marriage

·         Damage and/or repair

·         Gem Identification

·         Liquidation

 When you require a Gems & Jewelry appraisal, turn to the experts. The American Society of Appraisers and its member appraisers are recognized for the highest standards in education, training, and certification for Gems & Jewelry valuation. ASA GJ Appraisers provide mentoring, share technical information, collaborate with colleagues on appraisal issues, and participate in continuing education to stay on the leading edge of changes in valuation processes and methods.

ASA GJ Appraisers “must promote and preserve the public trust inherent in appraisal practice by observing the highest standards of professional ethics.”

Test Methods to Find Gold Content (Fineness)

 Test Methods To Find Gold Content (Fineness) 

There are a number of methods for measuring the gold content - or ‘fineness’ - of carat gold jewellery. 

Measuring the gold content is known as assaying and many of the most commonly used methods are described in a recent World Gold Council technical publication ‘The Assaying and Refining of Gold - a guide for the gold jewellery producer’. 

Which method of measurement is selected depends on the accuracy of measurement needed and the speed and ease of measurement. The cost of the equipment (instrument) will also influence the decision.


01) Fire Assay   (ISO 11426:1993)

The most accurate method, with an accuracy of 2-3 parts per ten thousand (0.02%), is the Fire Assay (Cupellation) method. This involves taking a small scraping from the article, typically about 250 milligrammes, weighing it accurately, wrapping it in lead foil with some added silver, cupelling it in in a furnace at about 1100°C to remove all base metals and then placing the resulting gold-silver alloy button in nitric acid to dissolve out the silver (known as ‘parting’) and re-weighing the resulting pure gold. This is the standard reference technique used by the national Assay laboratories worldwide for Hallmarking and is covered in the International Standard, ISO 11426:1993. A good description of the process is given in an article in Gold Technology, No 3, January 1991.

A simplification of this technique involves omitting the initial cupellation stage and just melting the sample with added silver and/or copper, rolling to a thin sheet and then dissolving out the silver and base metals with nitric acid. This is satisfactory only when there are no other impurities present, but will be less accurate.



(02) X-ray fluorescence

X-ray fluorescence (XRF) is a non-destructive technique that is suitable for normal assaying requirements such as in-house quality control in manufacturing or for ‘certifying’ gold content in retail outlets. It has an accuracy of, typically, 2-5 parts per thousand under good conditions, i.e. where the surface of the jewellery being measured is relatively flat and sufficiently large. On curved surfaces, the gold X-rays generated and measured are scattered and accuracy is reduced significantly. It is a quick technique, an assay taking about 3 minutes, and the results can be automatically printed out by the computer. It also measures the content of the other alloying metals present. However, it only measures the gold content of a thin surface layer, so accuracy is severely compromised where the jewellery article has had a chemical surface treatment (to enhance colour) or has been electroplated with a layer of pure gold.

The more accurate XRF instruments measure the intensity of the generated gold X-rays by wavelength dispersion analysis. The use of energy dispersive analysers results in cheaper instruments but reduced accuracy. Reference alloy standards, of known composition close to that of the test piece, are needed if accuracy is required in XRF testing.

There are several instruments appearing on the market developed specifically for gold jewellery assaying, such as the X-tester, and these are more reasonably priced. A major retailer in India has equipped each of their stores with such instruments. The gold content of each piece of jewellery is measured as it is sold, printing off a Certificate, thereby guaranteeing caratage conformance and providing consumer confidence in a country where national Hallmarking regulations do not exist.



(03) Touchstone testing

Touchstone testing is an ancient method for measuring gold content whereby a rubbing of the jewellery is made on a special touchstone alongside rubbings of known reference samples and treated with acids. The colour of the reacted area is compared to that of the reference sample. It is not sufficiently accurate (about 15 parts per thousand at best) and is only useful as a sorting test to differentiate between different caratages. It is less accurate at high caratages and with white golds. A more detailed description of the technique can also be found in Gold Technology, No 3, January 1991.



(04) Gold Testing Pen 

The Electronic Gold Tester (or the so-called Gold Pen) is a cheap, although portable technique based on the capacitance decay principle. Accuracy is poor, being correct to only 1-2 carats (4-8%) and is compromised if the surface is gold-plated, for example. It is useful only as a sorting test.



(05) Density Measurement

The density of carat golds reduces as caratage is lowered and this gives rise to density measurement as a possible method of measuring gold content, using Archimedes principle. However, density is also influenced by the other alloying constituents and so the accuracy of the method is poor. Jewellery containing defects such as porosity would further reduce the accuracy of density measurement. It is not recommended by world Gold Council.



Comparison of Assaying Techniques

Technique

Versatility

Sample size

Accuracy

Limitations

Equipment Cost

Fire Assay

Only gold

~ 250 mg

0.02%

Modifications for
Ni and Pd

Moderate $50,000

ICP

Complete analysis

~20 mg

0.1%

-

High
$150,000

XRF

Complete analysis

Non-destructive

0.1 - 0.5%

Surface layer, flat samples

Moderate $25,000+

Touchstone

Only gold

Almost non-destructive

1-2%

Unsuitable for
high carat and white golds

Low
$100

Electronic Pen

Only gold

Non- destructive

4-8%

Not consistent

Low
$200

Density

Only gold

Non-destructive

Poor

Only for binary alloys

Low
$500


For high accuracy, consistent with marking/Hallmarking regulations, only Fire Assay is sufficient. This technique involve taking a physical sample (a scraping) from the jewellery item.

For good accuracy, X-ray Fluorescence (XRF) analysis is suitable. Accuracy depends on the shape (geometry) of the item; it is best on flat surfaces. This technique is suitable for quality control in production and for certifying caratage conformance in a retail environment. It is a quick technique (3-4 mins) and does not require technical expertise to operate. Results are automatically displayed/printed out by the computer control. Suitable bench-top instruments developed specifically for jewellery use are available on the market. Reference standards are necessary.

For sorting jewellery into different caratages, then the touchstone and electronic gold pens are suitable cheap, quick techniques.

Density measurement not recommended to certifying gold caratage..

Source : WORLD GOLD COUNCIL

GOLD JEWELLERY SELF VALUATION

Before buy Gold Jewellery 

YOU MUST READ - (Self Valuation)

Whenever you buy gold jewellery the price that you invest also includes the gold purity as well as the effort and the artistry of the craftsman that shaped, polished, cut and moulded that gold into the design you get.

The final price is calculated through the following way:

Price of jewellery = gold rate per gram of a particular purity of gold x weight of gold in jewellery + making charge per gram + wastage


DAILY UPDATED GOLD RATES



Determine the final price of a gold jewellery piece which may often vary from jeweller to jeweller due to branding. However, the gold rate per gram remains the same in a city and similar throughout the country. You can check the live gold rate in Sri Lanka through GOLDCeylon youtube channel and GOLDCeylon facebook page , online world gold rates you can check kitco web. Don't forget to check the current gold price whenever you want. 


JEWELLERY MAKING COST




Making charge is the cost of the process involved in producing and designing any piece of gold jewellery that you buy. In simple words, it is the cost of changing raw gold into fine jewellery. Also gold purity plays an important part in the making charges. If the gold is stronger and durable, it can be moulded into fine designer jewellery by craftsmen. Certainly, if the design is more intricate, there will be more time and artistry invested into its making, and so, the making charge for it may also vary accordingly. It is always recommended to buy gold that has hallmark on it which certifies its purity. Making charge is usually expressed in Rupees/ dollers per gram of gold.

Making charge can make the whole difference in the price of your gold jewellery no matter from where you buy it. It may vary from one piece of jewellery to other and from one jeweller to another. Jewellers use different ways of computing these charges. Some jewellers include making charge at a fixed rate per gram of gold, while others charge is based on a percentage of the total jewellery weight. For mass-market machine-made jewellery like simple gold chains, the making charges usually range from 3% to 25%. For items like pure gold coins, the making charges are negligible or very less compared to gold jewellery.

While, in case of very intricate designs that require skilled craftsmanship, like wedding jewellery, these charges could go up to almost 25%. Studded jewellery pieces usually involve very intricate work and thus they incur higher making charges than plain gold jewellery. However, you can find various online platforms that give you discount on making charges.

JEWELLERY WASTAGE  COST



Crafting gold jewellery pieces requires melting, cutting, and shaping it that leads to some possible amount of wastage as the perfect pieces are joined together to form a single piece of well-designed jewellery. Traditional jewellers always keep a margin for the amount of gold wastage usually charged to customers at a percentage included in the final price. This concept originated because jewellers used their hands at the old times resulting in a certain amount of gold wastage, and even modern machine-made jewellery has a wastage charge component. 

Pieces that are embellished with stones cause a little more wastage than plainer gold jewellery. Hence, the charges will differ accordingly and can range anywhere between 7- 10%. However, modern methods and technology used are generally more efficient in using the gold in jewellery production, minimising the wastage that occurs while crafting the designer pieces.

So whether you buy gold jewellery it is important to keep in mind these things mentioned above to make your purchase safe and reliable.

@GOLDCeylon - Precious Metal E Magazine 

White Gold / Rhodium on White Gold

Colour Change

White Gold / Rhodium on White Gold 



  If white gold is white, why does it need rhodium plating? Well, the truth is that white gold isn’t pure white. Like most other types of gold used in fine jewelry, white gold is an alloy of gold and other metals. Typically, white gold is made of pure gold that has been mixed with nickel, silver, or palladium. When pure gold, which is yellow in color, is mixed with these white metals, it looks much more white. However, white gold alloys still tend to look a bit yellow or off-white, since they are mostly made of pure gold. So to get a bright white color, many jewelers coat white gold with rhodium. 

Reasons why the gold rates rising up

Reasons why the gold prices are up

The following are the top reasons for gold rates to be rising local and international.

  • Gold prices rise when people are unsure about the government or financial markets.
  • Gold is viewed as a safe haven at times of economic.
  • Production cost influences its cost. When the cost of production is high, miners sell gold for more money so that they can preserve their profits. This reflects when the gold is sold in the market
  • Gold is held as a hedge against inflation and currency devaluation. Currency may fluctuate but the gold price stays stable for a long time.
  • Gold is bought when investors fear that the value of the currency will decline.
  • When the dollar weakens, gold strengthens.
  • When the banks are going through a deficit, investors buy tangible asset like gold to protect their wealth.
  • As interest rates decrease, gold rates increase as the opportunity cost to hold gold is lower when compared to other investments.
  • When there is a large money supply, that is when the central banks encourages loaning more money, the interest rates go down. This can however trigger inflation and that in turn will increase the price of gold.
  • When the banks buy gold in great quantities as reserve, the gold prices go up as the supply of currency increases and the gold availability is scarce.
  • There is a huge demand for jewellery in China and India. There is also a great demand for gold from industrial applications..
  • When the economic conditions make gold more attractive, the demand increases leading to the increase in its pricing.
  • Subscribe GOLDCeylon for more upadates.

24 Karat (999 PPT) Pure Gold not Suitable for Jewellery ?

100% gold or 24 karat gold is remarkably soft for a metal. This softness allows for gold’s ductility (its ability to be drawn into wires) and malleability (its ability to be hammered into sheets). In fact, Gold is the most malleable metal that mankind knows of, and it could be hammered into sheets so thin that a pile of them an inch high would contain more than 200,000 separate sheets.



While gold’s softness allows it to be easily beaten into sheets and drawn into wires, it also has its downsides. One of the most common uses of gold is in jewellery, wherein intricate designs of golden ornaments are studded with precious jewels. It is almost impossible that a jeweller would use 100% gold in an ornament that needs to tightly grasp onto a diamond or some other precious stone. The reason for this is the exceptional softness of gold that we spoke about earlier. 24 karat gold is so soft, that it could easily be deformed and lose its firm grip on a jewel and allow it to slip or fall out of your ornament. Hence, order to have an ornament that is stronger. most jewellers use 22 karat gold which is an alloy.


Gold comes in varying levels of purity; from 10 karat gold – is the lowest purity to 24 karat gold, which is 100% pure. Gold of less than 24k is always an alloy with other metals, such as copper, silver or platinum.


An alloy exhibits properties of all the component metals within it. For example, mixing 2 parts of silver with 22 parts of gold would give us an alloy that is 22 karat or 91.67% pure gold and would be a lot harder than 100% pure gold as it would take upon the harder properties of the silver. as the percentage of gold decreases, the strength/hardness of the alloy increases, according to the properties of the other metal(s) in the alloy.

@GOLDCeylon